Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races

When I'm an old* lady**, I want to look back on a life that looks like a patchwork quilt, embroidered with tales of adventure, contrasted with silver stitches of quiet reflective moment and panels of laughter. I want to explore stories, live in escapades and make my own kind of history. And, when I'm an old lady, I want to be able to say that I lived life to the utmost in my own unique way*** free from competing with the Jones' and full of contentment.

(For the best resolution of the images, click them to open the slideshow.)

So it is with great pleasure that I finally, finally, finally made it to the Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races accompanied by the gorgeous Annie of MontgomeryFest fame - the taco-adoring Southern belle who helped us plan our Louisiana roadtrip escapades making it our best holiday ever. With her and her husband having moved over to London from Louisiana (via Brussels and San Francisco), I wanted to share with her some of my London, that crazy traditional history side that keeps the magic of my adoptive city alive (and if you don't agree you are a muggle, fact.)

A luxurious sunrise brunch at Duck and Waffle - best way to start Monday

I finally did it. Hauled myself out of bed before sunrise and breakfasted amongst the amazing views of Duck and Waffle. Not only did I get myself out of bed, but managed to tempt Mr Kiwi along with me (though for some reason he thought we were going to a pub for a pre-work brunch? It goes to show how crazy he is, because he did it anyway) up 40 floors for brunch among the clouds.

Recently (after much reminder temptation from the likes of Angloyankophile and JessOnThames, and knowing that sunrises are getting earlier and earlier) we booked an intimate table for two as a Monday morning pre-work treat, to start the week off in a slightly more fun way than our usual porridge al-desko. Over the weekend prior, having watched the weather predictions with horror at Storm Irene threatening to drop a weather system on all the commuting Londoners the very morning we were meant to be enjoying the sunrise, we breathed a sigh of relief when we emerged from Liverpool Street Station to a windy, but fairly clear sky. That was a long, pre-caffeine sentence, my apologies.

15 London secrets that the tourist crowds miss

Living in London long-term is a fascinating window into the eccentricities of British history. Buildings that have survived more than 10 generations of human stories, streets that echo the rambling paths of underwater riverbanks, rolling acres of grassy parks and the delicious smells of a melting pot that is London cuisine. History books be damned, this city is alive with the most incredible tales.

And what's more, as lifers, we get a chance to discover the small and precious moments of 1,972 years of inhabited streets (yup, London was apparently founded in 43AD. Let me repeat that - 43AD. My home country was founded in 1840, some 1,797 years later.) We obviously get to enjoy the major sights and sounds of tourist London every time we have visitors, but we can also slowly and deliciously discover the inbetween bits over time. The nooks and crannies, the local history and finally answering the loaded question of what to do in London (and best of all, every single one is absolutely free - hello stacation ninja status).

10 things to do in Christchurch, New Zealand

Christchurch broke our hearts. 4 years after the 2011 6.3 magnitute earthquake, there are still families affected by the violent tectonic shaking and insurance companies running out of budget to get them back on their feet. Every where you walk through the quiet city there are reminders of the devastation – a half standing Cathedral surrounded by fallen masonry, orange construction cones barring entry and staircases leading to nowhere.

On the flipside, the ‘number-8’ wire sensibility – the particularity Kiwi knack for making do and succeeding with whatever is to hand (and if you’re a farmer it’s usually 8-gauge fencing wire) – is everywhere. Take the surprisingly beautiful Cardboard Cathedral, the stunning murals painted on the exposed walls of buildings, wire fences set with colourful patterning and the ReStart mall made from shipping containers.

Most tourists use Christchurch as a journey point to the rest of the South Island – somewhere to collect a rental car, as a relaxing day in-between rushing from mud geysers in the North to glaciers in the South and a place to stock up on supplies for extended roadtrips down the wild, winding West Coast.

Oranges and Lemons; Last lines

What started as a simple challenge to create a round-up of a few churches became a year long exploration of the East End that made my travelling heart happy. I've tried proper Pie Mash 'n Liquor, heard the Bow bells call to new Cockneys, learned a little of the lingo and discovered an incredibly unique museum.

(I guess) hearkening to our colonial past, the hallways of my New Zealand Primary school would to ring with the chanting of the London East End lines of Oranges & Lemons. Now, I can lay the history to rest, having discovered the roots.

Whitechapel Bell Foundry; Oranges & Lemons "Two sticks and an apple"

Fender, Steinway, Stradivarius. All world famous musical instrument producers, master craftsmen and leaving a legacy of  joy in the world every day. But, I'm willing to bet that the Whitechapel Bell Foundry are the most quietly famous of all these acclaimed companies, and the heritage inscribed through the daily pealing tolls could last much, much longer.

  

England simply wouldn't be England without the bells ringing from Church Towers, without a comforting cup of tea in any stressful situation, and arguments over whether scones are pronounced 'scon' or 'scohne'. When deciding to 'find' all of the East End Churches in the children's rhyme Oranges and Lemons, I didn't quite expect to find myself a year and a half later, standing in one of the coolest workshops I've ever been in.

"When I grow rich" say the bells of Shoreditch

With this London mini-series almost complete, it's quite sad to think about finishing it, but as they say, all good things come to an end.

Well known Shoreditch is a hub of up-and-coming North East London, and entertains a steady stream of coffee-drinking, graffiti loving art-students and bohemians - a funky area with a very trendy vibe. Amidst all of these, the Grand Dame that is Shoreditch Parish Church watches o'er.

"When will you pay me?" say the bells of Old Bailey

One of the aspects of England that make it so quintesessentially English, are it's "gleaming spires" rising up above the modern glass fronted sky scrapers and concrete monoliths. In most areas, you can't go very far before seeing a church tower or sprire rising above the treetops, and I for one love it.

{Ps. It's 'Oranges and Lemons' day today in London!}

The Old Bailey is the local name for the Central London Criminal court (located in Bailey Street, along the lines of the City's fortified wall or Bailey from which it takes it's nickname), and is sited opposite Newgate prison, housing both criminals and debtors. It doesn't have it's own bell, but the rhyme referes to the bells of St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate church and the bell of Newgate prison.

"Pray when will that be?" say the bells of Stepney. Oranges and Lemons

Located on Stepney High Street, a church has stood on the site prior to 925AD. This is the third incarnation, and was erected in 1580. Located within the Oranges and Lemons remit, there are ten bells in the belfry, some dating back to 1385 and some of which were made in the Whitechapel Bell Foundry.

Of the Churches visited, it seems they are the most visibly proud of their architectural, & Oranges and Lemons heritage:

"Kettles and pans" say the bells of St Anne's.

We're now three quarters of the throught the series (or to be more accurate nine fourteenths) and I kinda don't want to finish. It's just been so nice getting to know the East End much better, that I don't want it to end. You know, the way that you eat a meal so delicious that you don't want to finish it because then it'll be gone (here's looking at you Turkish Eggs))?

Tucked near a very Parisian section of London...

"Maids in white aprons" say the bells of St Katharines: Oranges and Lemons

A rather unusual Church, St Katharine Cree sits in the shadow of the iconic St Mary Axe and a stone's throw from the Leadenhall Market. A serious, shoe-horned exterior hides a very pretty interior.

The building dates from before the Great Fire, and is "known as the Guild Church to Finance, Commerce and Industry, the present building dates from 1630, although the tower dates from 1504 and was part of the previous church on the site, which itself originally formed part of the mediaeval Priory of the Holy Trinity (1108)."

"Old Father Baldpate" say the slow bells of Aldgate: Oranges and Lemons

To me, the juxtapositions of London buldings are (mostly) great - the traditional brick facade of Churches, hand in hand with modern design marvels (but usually outshining the 1960's horrendous office buildings). This is most prevalent in the war-scarred East End of London where new developments were forced to replace bomb damage, and also from the population growth.

In this line of the rhyme there seem to be two schools of thought to which Bells are referred to - one the Aldgate Bell Foundry that can be traced back to 1420, or the Church, St Botolph's without Aldgate.

As I couldn't find anything about the foundry (it possibly has links with the Whitechapel foundry (to follow)) we decided to focus on St Botolph's which dates from around 1741. Sadly (this wasn't going very well!) it wasn't open the day we went, so I've scheduled a trip back to see the interior - which by all accounts is beautiful.

Interesting facts:

• Daniel Defoe was married in St. Botolph’s.
• During World War II a bomb hit the roof of the church, but it got stuck there and did not explode.
• The Church also has Jack the Ripper links - in Victorian times it was known at the "Church of Prostitutes as there was a prohibition of standing on street corners, so they stood on the island where the Church stands. It was close to here that the Ripper took his third victim. 

 "Oranges and Lemons" say the bells of St Clement's. 

"Bull's eyes and targets" say the bells of St Margaret's.

"Pokers and tongs" say the bells of St John's.

"Pancakes and fritters" say the bells of St Peter's.

"Two sticks and an apple" say the bells of Whitechapel.

"Old Father Baldpate" say the slow bells of Aldgate.

"Maids in white aprons " say the bells of St Katharine's.

"Brickbats and tiles" say the bells of St Giles'.

"Kettles and pans" say the bells of St Anne's.

"You owe me five farthings" say the bells of St Martin's.

"When will you pay me?" say the bells of Old Bailey.

"When I grow rich" say the bells of Shoreditch.

"Pray when will that be?" say the bells of Stepney.

"I'm sure I don't know" says the great bell of Bow.

Here comes a candle to light you to bed,

Chip chop, chip chop, the last man's dead.

  

The rhyme's reference to "Old Father Bald Pate" refers to the balding St BotolphA Saxon Abbot is the patron Saint of travellers and Itinerants. His relics were brought to London through various towns and eventually through the four City gates of Aldersgate, Bishopsgate, Aldgate and Billingsgate. The churches at the entrances to these gates were named after him. The first three remain, but the one at Billingsgate was destroyed in the Great Fire (1666) and never rebuilt. It seems that as his relics were conveyed from place to place, his name became associated with wayfarers and travellers.

The Church website can be found here. 

"Pokers and tongs" say the bells of St John's: Oranges and Lemons

I found this Church unintentionally and purely by chance. Found in the White Tower of the Tower of London, this has probably the goriest and saddest history of all the Churches in the rhyme, because of it's associations with Royalty, Torture and notably the two sons of Edward IV, known as the Princes of the Tower, a mysterious disappearance in relation to King Richard III's rule.

Rather ironically, I've had this post planned for a little while, but last night we have had the breaking news of the discovery of King Richards III's remains found in a carpark, possibly debunking commonly held beliefs (and leading to an incredibly funny hashtag on Twitter #kinginacarpark - check it out & add me @londonkiwiemma whilst you're there).

"I'm sure I don't know" says the great bell of Bow: Oranges and Lemons

To be a real, knees-up Cockney London Geezer, you have to be born within the sound of Bow Bells. Surprisingly, when the tradition was decided, the small (soon to be be encapsulated in the sprawling mess of London) village of Bow was not the site of Bow Bells, but a Church in London's Cheapside, called St Mary-le-Bow.

In the 14th Century, the St Mary-le-Bow Bells rang out at 9am to warn the locals of their imminent bed-time. Surprising facts: They were silenced for two years in 1856 by an eccentric local woman who believed that the noise of their clanging might otherwise kill her, and used at the Start of BBC broadcasts in WWII. (Research Credit)

"You owe me five farthings" say the bells of St Martin's

It's funny, I've lived in London now for more than half a Decade, and I still delight in touristy wandering, discovering new corners and the historical backstory. I know 

"...when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford." - Samuel Johnson

but I do sometimes wonder if the delight will ever really wear off as it's such a thriving city, and there is always a new corner to turn and a new secret to discover.

Sadly, when we arrived to see this Church, it was originally shrouded in scaffolding, keeping it's quietly to itself, getting a facelift.

London Living: "Pancakes and fritters" say the bells of St Peter's

After taking great interest in the wrong Church, we found St Peter-at-Cornhill which to our dismay isn't open to the public.

However, rising above the surrounding buildings, it is very pretty.

Even though it's not regularily open to the public, it's great to see that it's still in daily use. There is nothing sadder than an empty disused Church, rotting away to nothing.

Adventures of the Benign

This week has been lovely, random but full of Christmas Cheer. I hope you have a lovely Friday!

Balance:

Are you enjoying the Festive season?

London Living: "Brickbats and tiles" say the bells of St Giles'

St Giles-without-Cripplegate is tucked away on a fairly ugly Estate, amongst some awful Brutalist buildings. Now I know that the Brutalism style was partially a reaction to the World Wars, and a need for something different, something that symbolised the strength and modernity of a new Europe, with cheaper building materials, but still, Urgh.

St Giles makes for a nice relief.

"When built it stood without (that is, outside) the city wall, near the Cripplegate. The church is dedicated to St Giles, patron saint of beggars and cripples. It is one of the few medieval churches left in the City of London, having survived the Great Fire of 1666."

London Living: "Bull's eyes and targets" say the bells of St Margaret's

On a wintery day in East London, we decided to continue checking out the Churches & Bell Towers in the Oranges & Lemons nursery rhyme, a goal I've had since coming to London (that and the Monopoly Pub crawl which is planned for a warmer time of the year).

I can't tell you how welcoming this warm pretty church was, full of practising singers & Christmas cheer.

London Living: Oranges and Lemons, say the bells of St Clements...

Guess what I accidentally stumbled upon? St Clement's just as the bells were ringing. The original church was badly damaged in 1948 by enemy fire & was rebuilt in 1958 and was dedicated to the RAF.

"For over 1,000 years a church has stood on this spot. Tradition holds that it was originally built by Danes expelled from the City of London by King Alfred in the ninth century.  It is mentioned in William the Conqueror’s Domesday Book (1086) and for nearly 150 years was in the care of the Knights Templar (1170-1312). The church escaped damage in the Great Fire of London (1666) but was rebuilt in 1681 by Christopher Wren and a steeple was added to the tower by James Gibbs in 1719. On 10 May 1941 incendiary bombs gutted the building leaving only the walls and tower standing, so ending another chapter in its rich history."