Travel's made me fearless (Guest post: Charley)

I love Charley. She's a pink-haired sweetheart who used to live a few blocks away from my house (I stalked her via Twitter as you do) before she moved cross-country to get away from the glorious chaos of London. (I'm pretty sure it wasn't my fault.)

Now she's living Up North and blogging at This City Life, she kindly agreed to guest post whilst we're recovering over the New Year period.

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Travel’s made me fearless.

I’m a scaredy cat, through and through. I rarely do anything without listing the pros and cons first, don’t have the stomach for exotic foods, and think those who enjoy skydiving are seriously underestimating how great sitting down is. But, thanks to travel I have managed to grow a (small) pair in the name of getting out there and putting myself in situations I normally wouldn’t. Here are some of the ways that travel’s made me fearless.

Things to do (if you fall for a sailor and find yourself spending time) in Aberdeen, Scotland – Part 2

Bottle of rum Glass of beer in hand, Alana also spent a few hours of her recent trip to Aberdeen tasting her way around the city. When in Rome and all that...

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Drink some craft beer
I’ll admit I was in a bit of a bad mood when I arrived in Aberdeen due to some issues with my flight but Brewdog helped turn my mood around. The decor is trendy craft brew pub standard - carefully curated raw materials mixed with funky eclectica. The guys at the table next to us (who matched the general decor) sported fine hipster beards, curled moustaches and were busy taking macro photos with their DSLR. If you ignored their Scottish accents we could’ve been back in London!

The beers The Boy and I tried had personality – both on the palate and with their rather creative names. Brewdog’s cheeseboard is also delicious and third party mediation was nearly needed to ensure the spoils were divided evenly. Cheese, like beer is a serious business.



Within sight of Brewdog is another gem in Aberdeen’s beery crown. Some Scottish folks down the coast in Stonehaven got it in their heads to start brewing Belgian beer and 6° North was born. With an intimidating list of tap beers, help from the staff was very necessary to for me make my choice. They were also rather generous about serving up samples to help me with my decision.




Luckily they didn’t tell us there are over 300 bottled beers on their beer menu until after we’d picked our first drinks or I think I might’ve had had a meltdown over what to choose. However The Boy got a gleam in his eye when he discovered the extent of the beer menu and took a copy back to the boat with him to show his colleagues.

Eat some Italian
Dinner was decided on the toss of a coin (if it had come up heads we would’ve been eating Indian). Rustico has classic Italian decor without being kitsch and the photographic prints of Sicilian life on the walls took me back to when I was there a couple of years ago. The restaurant is well reviewed online and the praise is justified. The Boy’s Padellata Siciliana justified it’s £20 price tag by having plentiful portions of every type of sea creature in a spicy tomato broth. My mushroom pasta was packed with so many oyster mushrooms there were possibly more of them than pasta. I wish we’d had more space for dessert - their handmade cheesecake looked divine but we were so full we only had room to share a tiramisu.



Read/buy a book and have a cup of tea
Imagine a bohemian cafe inside a secondhand bookstore and you have Books and Beans. It’s cluttered and a little bit cosy but it works. I browsed their books but didn’t have a coffee so the verdict is out about the quality of their brew. If you go there grab a seat on the first floor. The ones by the window have good light for reading and a view of the street if you prefer to people watch. Don’t bother going to the second floor - there’s only an internet cafe up there and it smells a bit like teenage boy and people who don’t go outside much!

Get a coffee
Contour cafe gets a tick in my book for a good coffee in Aberdeen (even if they did serve it in a mug). They’re tucked away on The Green, a quiet square just below Union Street (the main shopping street). Their lunch menu looks impressive but they were kind enough to make me a bacon and egg roll with plenty of tomato sauce for breakfast – despite not being a breakfast kind of place. I arrived just as they opened their doors for the day and when they turned on their music the first track that played was Katchafire. Between that and the plentiful tomato sauce this kiwi was pretty happy.

 

Also popping out to nearby Stonebridge, a good helping of Fish and chips was on the menu...

Walking past people in kilts practicing their bagpiping in a carpark for the festival (it wasn’t pleasant so I didn't linger to see/hear more) I made it to Stonehaven beach. Following the beachfront walkway I eventually reached The Bay Fish and Chip Shop, winners of the Independent UK Fish and Chip Shop of 2013. As well as being award winning deep fryers they’re also all about the sustainability and accountability of their food. Apparently the potatoes for my chips came from a farm in Suffolk and my haddock was caught on a boat called Faithful FR129 (which is a real boat because I checked).

 

But forget about the pedigree of my food - the most important thing is that it was delicious.

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Utterly scrumptious. Have you been inspired yet?

Things to do (if you fall for a sailor and find yourself spending time) in Aberdeen, Scotland – Part 1

Scottish Sea shanty singing aside (rounds are usually best I've found) my lovely guest poster Alana (she of the SantaCon legend and Guildford walking track) has kindly offered to pop back in with a round of adventures and recommendations in Aberdeen.

I adore that Alana likes to travel the way I do, explore and get under the skin of a city off the beaten track, really taking the time to wander and taste the beer. I mean, the culture of a new place.

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Aberdeen is Scotland’s third largest city, the ‘gateway to the North Sea’ and not a city you’d find yourself visiting unless you have another reason to be there. I date a sailor who works in the offshore industry and he’d been away forever doing boat things so I decided to pay him (and Aberdeen) a visit.

When going to a new place I normally search for travel blogs to get ideas beyond the usual Tripadvisor/tourist board website fare but it seems nobody has written a travel blog on Aberdeen. So after researching and visiting it myself (and with many thanks to Emma) I would like to present:

Things to do (if you fall for a sailor and find yourself spending time) in Aberdeen – Part 1

Get some Scottish banknotes
If you’re used to spending English pounds the Scottish equivalent are a colourful change. Plus it’s fun to use them back in England. They’re legal tender anywhere in the UK but they can confuse people – so if you’re the mischievous sort this one is for you.


Visit the Aberdeen Museum
I LOVED this museum. The rooms were small enough that I didn’t feel overwhelmed and a lot of the paintings and sculpture were in my art sweet spot of somewhere between 1800 and 1940.

  
Following a colourful trail of flowers up the stairs took me to the current exhibition which was 50 years of work by textile designer Kaffe Fassett.







Compared with the white walls in the rest of the gallery the exhibition was a riot of colour, pattern and texture. I absolutely loved it and couldn’t rate it high enough. The only people that seemed to like it more than me were the couple wearing matching Fassett inspired knitted jerseys.

The staff are also lovely. When I asked reception if anyone would know if works from an ancestor of mine were in the collection another staff member tracked me down, catalogue in hand to look it up for me before I had a chance to find him first.

Get your sailor boyfriend to give you a tour of his boat
It’s not something that most visitors to Aberdeen get to do but The Boy organised for me to have a quick tour of the boat he works on. Technically it’s 81 metres of multi purpose offshore vessel but calling it a boat simplifies things.



There was some pretty serious maintenance underway - in fact the boat wasn’t even floating as it was getting a new paint job and an overhaul of its mechanical bits. It was fascinating, oily, manly (seriously there were no women anywhere) and a totally different working environment from my job in a pristine central London office.

Visit Footdee and try find the ugliest garden ornament or friendliest cat
Footdee (called Fittee by the locals) is an old fishing village on the east side of the Aberdeen harbour. It’s incredibly photogenic with cute little wooden shacks and slate roof cottages. I had a lot of fun judging peoples taste in garden ornaments and trying to figure out if a garden gnome can ever be ironic.

The weather was good so I also took a walk along the beach near Footdee. You can see out across the North Sea and watch the boats coming in to Aberdeen harbour. I was there at 7.30am but I think it would be spectacular if you arrived a bit earlier for the sunrise.



Walk around Aberdeen
Aberdeen is known as the grey or granite city as a lot of the buildings are build of the local granite. The Marischal College building is pretty spectacular as it’s recently renovation has restored the granite from charcoal to the original silver grey.

Aberdeen isn’t a big city and I got a good feel for it by walking around.

Leave Aberdeen and go on a daytrip
45 minutes south of Aberdeen by bus is the town of Stonehaven and nearby Dunnottar Castle. The castle is a ruined fortress famous as the hiding place of the Scottish crown jewels from the army of Oliver Cromwell. It’s also perched on a headland facing the North Sea and is pretty awesome to explore.





There is a path that heads from Dunnottar Castle in the direction of Stonehaven. Hoping it would eventually get me to town I followed it along the edge of the cliffs getting stunning views over farmland, the sea and back towards the castle. The walk goes past the Stonehaven War Memorial which is designed to look unfinished to symbolise the lives of the local men that were cut short.



When I reached Stonehaven there was all sorts of noise (I believe it was a rather enthusiastic jazz band) and activity down by the harbour. The town was in the middle of a harbour festival and there were children and boats everywhere as well as people trying to convince you to vote Yes or No to Scottish independence, donate to the RNLI or even just buy a kipper in a roll.



I also ducked into the Tollbooth Museum which is tiny but worth a look. It’s like being in a really quirky and cluttered antique shop. Except nothing is for sale.



Things in Aberdeen I didn’t get to see
I had some bad luck with flight cancellations and delays and arrived in Aberdeen half a day later than I planned. Here’s some other things I would’ve seen if I had the chance:

Aberdeen Maritime Museum
I prioritised the Aberdeen Art Gallery ahead of this museum however it’s meant to be pretty cool and would’ve made the list if I’d had another day.
Aberdeen Country Fair
Held on the last Saturday of the month (and the Saturdays before Christmas) this market has everything from local produce to crafts and jewellery.

In a second installment shortly I talk about the tasty places for food and drink at in Aberdeen...

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Thank you Alana! I need to book a couple of tickets methinks...

Literary links of London: Staycation Travel Linkup

London is ridiculous. Every corner, every turn is steeped in another layer of delicious history just waiting to be turned back and discovered. For our monthly travel linkup, the lovely Mandy (who has the brightest smile and biggest heart of anyone I know) is joining Kelly, Rebecca and I linking up, and suggested a staycation theme to match in with the upcoming UK bank holiday.
  

Everyone I know who comes to London inevitably asks me where to stay, what to eat and for a list of the main icons that they can't miss. It just depends on your budget, time allowance and interests. In other words, unless you hit my London top 10, I'm probably not going to be of much help.

 
Veering a little off-piste for this link up, and I'm taking a virtual guided tour of a few favourite literary locations dotted along the Thames, something I think is a staycation must for new visitors, tourists, travellers, permanent residents and longterm London addicts. What better way for fellow bookworms wanting to get a real taste of the London they devour in so so many of their favourite modern books? The only question is where to start & end...

Boy behind the blog: Link Up

They say that behind every blogger is an hungry partner in crime waiting to eat their dinner, hoping that it will still be warm by the time the blogger has taken snaps from 15,000 angles.

They say that behind every cheesy posing shot of a bloggers feet at the beach, there is someone lounging next to them rolling their eyes.

They say that behind the heated discussions as to whether Chips are called Crisps, and Lollies called Sweets that both parties will agree that no matter the name, both are delicious and good reward to questions like "What should I blog about today?"

 

Tokyo, Japan. 

  

I'm rather lucky to have a very supportive other half - he's saddled with a wanderlusting Kiwi after all - and happily joins in the crazy things planned & suggested to him. Most of the time.

He has written before about his Anglo-Kiwi Experience - The other side of the Expat story but with the guest post take-over the rest of this week, and finding the Boy Behind the Blog Link Up, he kindly offered to join in. I'll leave you in his capable hands.

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In the general spirit of this blog a few random questions from past Boy behind the Blog posts, so I've chosen a few older questions. The things I do for my Kiwi...

  

1. Describe yourself in five words.

Thoughtful, hard-working, lazy, mischievous, grouch. (Edit: I'm surprised nagged isn't in there...)

  My born and bred Northern Lad.

2. If you could live anywhere, where would you live?

Marylebone, central London.

3. Sand or snow?

Snow. No question.

 Exploring Battersea Power Station.

4. Who is your favourite band/musician?
 The Beatles. I'm a huge George Harrison fan - definitely the most under-rated and under appreciated Beatle.

5. You're cooking a romantic dinner- what is your go-to dish?
 Cottage pie! (Edit: *Rolls Eyes* - if Mr Kiwi ate nothing else for the rest of his life, he'd be happy. Good thing he's a good cook. I would have said his Steak though... it's a gift)

 My best ever Birthday treat - a trip down Regents Canal

6. Complete the sentence: "Never have I ever..."
 Left home in the morning unshowered.

7. What would you do with $1,000,000?
 Buy a nicer, bigger house to return to after work. (Edit: The Cat is getting rather demanding...)

Otago Rail Trail, New Zealand (Guest Post: Rebecca)

Fellow London Kiwi, bubbly, cat-loving, flat-white drinking and exercise-hating +Rebecca Blandford has kindly taken over Adventures of a London Kiwi, with her exploration of the Otago Rail Trail, in the South Island of New Zealand.

 

I told you that this week would be a bevvie of beautiful bloggers didn't I?

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The Otago Rail Trail, a Runaway Kiwi and a killer Lamb.

 

The ever amazing Emma asked me to guest post on her blog, and being a thrill seeker she said I could write about whatever I liked...rookie mistake. But since the rumour is that she has a secret supply of Pineapple Lumps I better behave myself, so let me tell you about the time I voluntarily did exercise on holiday. This is the story of the time I rode the Otago Rail Trail. 

As my friends know, I love making impossible plans when drunk. After a few glasses of Pinot I think that the world is my oyster and running a marathon, taking a round the world trip or signing up for an advanced physics degree are all entirely plausible and very exciting options. Normally this would not be a problem, but in the age of the internet it means life gets a whole lot more interesting. Pre-internet you would wake up with a hangover and laugh about the stupid implausible things you planned last night. But with the internet and credit cards you wake up with a hangover and realise that the anti-exercise girl who has not ridden a bike in ten years has just booked a holiday to Otago for a week long bike ride over New Years.



When the trains stopped running in the central South Island of New Zealand, someone came up with the bright idea of taking out the tracks and making it a public cycle track and thus the Otago Rail trail was born. After all, trains can’t go up hills so the entire thing is mercifully flat and it goes through some of the most heartbreakingly beautiful countryside. 

Luckily the Pinot had given me enough presence of mind to book an entirely assisted trip, this meant that all food and was going to be provided (including some epic cooked breakfasts) and the best bit was we had a van following us the entire time. The magic of this van meant that they took our bags from hotel to hotel and if the cycling all got a bit much they could drive us to the next pit stop.



The plan was to do some training before the trip, well that was the plan anyway. The training turned out to be one bike ride to a cafe ten minutes down the road where we had to walk back because we were worried about spilling our flat whites. We were perfectly prepped for the 150kms of cycling ahead. 

It was incredibly beautiful. We were lucky with the weather, not too hot and not a speck of rain in sight. The ride was tough but we started with a road cycle beside some beautiful lakes to get us used to it, and by the time we hit the almost empty rail trail we were pros. There was something utterly in balance about cycling hard each day in the heartland of New Zealand, a massive hot dinner at night and in the morning waking with aching muscles ready to do it all again.



The only scary moment was when I got attacked by a lamb. Stop laughing. It bounded out of nowhere like a bat out of hell, and I was forced to take evasive manoeuvres in order to survive. I think what hurt most of all is that no one believed that it was a vicious and malicious creature with fangs, glowing red eyes and poison dripping from its wool. But hey, after a strong flat white and a pie I was ready to go again.



The holiday ended with an amazing historic train trip through the lower Taieri Gorge to Dunedin, just in time for a cocktail and tiredness fuelled New Years Eve. But the cycling was not over yet, on the way back to Christchurch on New Years Day we stopped by the Moeraki boulders for a photo followed by some more road cycling. Road cycling where I definitively managed to snap the chain on my bike. 

Sitting by the roadside in a field of grain, waiting for the support team to pick me up, felt like the most perfect end of the mad adventure that was the Otago Rail Trail. 

 

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Only Rebecca could have a Black Sheep experience and live to tell the tail. SorryI'mNotSorry. Definitely check out more of her explorations on her blog Runaway Kiwi, and her lovely jewellery. I can't guarantee that you'll have quite the same adventures but there is always a chance...



 

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A visit to the Real Secret Garden (Guest Post: Fran)

I love England. 100 Acre Woods, Beatrice Potter's farm, Father Thames' corner of London; there seem to be never ending classic literary corners to discover, and when +Fran Pickering mentioned that there is a real Secret Garden, I almost fell over in excitement. She has kindly offered to take those of us unable to visit on a virtual journey of my treasured childhood favourite...

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A visit to the real Secret Garden



 

One of my all-time favourite books is Frances Hodgson Burnett’s children’s classic The Secret Garden. I expect you've read it - it’s the story of two unhappy children who find a hidden, overgrown garden and make it bloom, learning to live again themselves in the process. It’s an irresistible story - who wouldn't want to find a secret garden of their own?

I discovered a few years ago that the hidden garden that inspired Hodgson Burnett to write the story actually exists - and it’s possible to go and see it. I was dying to go, but I had to wait more than six months before I got the chance, as it’s only open on a couple of days in June each year.

The garden in the book is in Yorkshire, but the real garden is in Rolvenden in Kent, not far from Tenterden. It belongs to Great Maytham Hall where Hodgson Burnett lived from 1898 to 1907. The garden was overgrown when she moved in, so she really did have the thrill of  discovering it and bringing it back to life. But she was only a tenant and in 1909 the owner commissioned Sir Edwin Lutyens to redesign the house, so now it’s quite different from the one she lived in. Gertrude Jekyll laid out the current rolling lawns, but fortunately didn’t touch the secret garden. The house was converted into flats in 2009; they sometimes come onto the market if you’re lucky.

The garden is closer to the house than you expect, and of course nowadays is beautifully kept, with manicured lawns and an ornamental pond filled with goldfish. 

 

But it still has that magical thrill of a secret revealed as you walk through the gate and the roses tumble over old stone walls just as you expect them to.

Hodgson Burnett did much of her writing in this pretty little summerhouse in the corner of the gardens, guarded by a wary cat.

 

If you have a car it’s an easy drive from London. If you’re going by train, as I did, you get the fast train to Ashford and then a rather infrequent bus to Rolvenden. You can change buses in Tenterden but don’t do what we did and walk from Tenterden - it's further than you think.

Check the National Gardens Scheme website for details of the days it’s open this year.

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Fran is author of new murder mystery The Cherry Blossom Murder, available for Kindle, and in paperback. I can happily attest that it's a wonderful slice of Japan, and you can read my review of the book here. 

Thank you so much Fran, it's lovely to have you back again!

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The long white cloud, Hoxton London (Guest Restaurant Review: Ngaire)

L&P, Kiwi treats, savoury muffins, and antipodean coffee. Who'd have thought you can find all of these in the depths of East London? My lovely friend Ngaire kindly investigated for us...

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The long white cloud: a taste of home

Having lived in London for four years now, sometimes you start to miss a bit of the homeland. I’d been told by a Brit workmate that ‘you Kiwi’s really do know how to do proper café food and lovely presentation’ and when he explained this café called ‘the long white cloud’ that he had visited, I knew I just had to check it out!

 

For those of you that aren’t Kiwis, New Zealand is known as ‘Aotearoa’ in Maori, meaning the ‘land of the long white cloud’. So what better place to visit when you’re missing New Zealand than a place named after it?

 

 

The ‘long white cloud’ is located on Hackney Road in Hoxton, a perfect spot to visit for brunch after the Colombia Road Flower Markets (which is what I did on this one sunny Sunday).

 

They have a menu to die for with so many gorgeous options with free range and fair trade products making any item not only yummy but satisfying too. I decided to eat something a bit different with a dish of French toast, while my friend (who had been drooling over the kiwi products on the shelf) decided to go for the free-range scrambled eggs with salmon and a side of L&P to prove that despite only being out of New Zealand a few months there is still need for Kiwi products (my Kiwi order from SANZA had already been made a few days before).

 

  

The café doesn’t quite have that sandy beach flavour that I’d imagine it would if was in the Bay of Plenty or Coromandel in New Zealand, but we are in London, so instead it goes for a bit of a rustic friendly feel to it with artwork on the walls and lovely smelling coffee to entice you in.

 

Having been there for brunch, I have a feeling I will need to examine the lunch or dinner menu further, as all their food looks incredibly enticing!

 

  

So if you’re up for a quiet Sunday brunch or a calming escape from the hipster vibe of East London, check out the long white cloud here.

 

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This guest post was by the lovely +Ngaire Ackerley – a fellow Kiwi who blogs over at Kiwi Footprints and can’t be seen travelling without her camera. She also has a beautiful photography portfolio.

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The Ultimate Kiwi OE Bucket List (Guest Post: Kelly)

With spring sunshine swiftly approaching, it felt like a wonderful time to share a garden of gorgeous guest posts. First up, the glamorously well heeled & Gluten Free +Kelly Michelle, from Around the World in 80 Pairs of Shoes.

 

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An ultimate Kiwi OE bucket list

 

As Kiwis, we tend to run away to London to do our big OE as soon as we have the cash to do so, as we are always looking for an adventure. So I thought I would create the ultimate Kiwi OE bucket list for your two years (or possibly longer) stay in London.

 

 

 
Tea with the Queen
In January, the New Zealand Embassy in London opens up a ballot for the Garden Party at Buckingham Palace. If there is only one afternoon tea that you are going to do while in London make sure it's with the Queen. This is will also highly annoy your English work colleagues as they won't understand how you could be invited to a Garden Party!

 Remembering our Boys
Each year, an ANZAC service is held at Westminster Abbey to remember our fallen soldiers. It is a joint service for the Australians and New Zealanders and I think it’s the only time I have ever sang the Australian National Anthem (forgive me for I have sinned!). The service is very traditional and they generally send along a random royal whom you would have never heard of before. Make sure you turn up on time otherwise you will get an escort down the aisle (like I did)! You can check out the London ANZAC services here.

 

Pomp and Pageantry
If there is one thing to love about London is the Pomp and Pageantry that surrounds this great city, and the Trooping of the Colour is all about the Pageantry. I have still to tick this off my list so fingers crossed I get tickets!

Check out the best view in London
I love that the Kiwis have stolen the best panoramic view of London from the Penthouse Suite of New Zealand House. Pop into one of The New Zealand Society events which are a hoot and half; meet some new kiwis, support NZ businesses located in London and take in the glorious views.

Escape to the Countryside
When you mention England to any foreigner they instantly assume you are based in London however there are some truly beautiful parts of England once you leave the capital. Case in point is Cambridge, York and the Lake District. You need to explore!

Be a Princess for a night
Ok you can be a Prince as well if you want! Let’s be totally honest, we have a slight lack of castles and palaces in New Zealand so make the most of living in England and actually book yourself a night in a castle. There are some great places dotted around England, there is something pretty thrilling about telling everyone back home that you are off to spend the weekend at a castle. Some great places to look into are Amberley Castle, Thornbury Castle or check out these great Landmark Trust properties.

Ruggers
Once you tell someone that you are from New Zealand you generally get asked about the All Blacks or Rugby; case in point – coming through the Marseille Passport Control and all I got was All Black All Black – yeap I’m a Kiwi! You can’t leave the UK until you take in a game at Twickenham. Tickets can cost an arm and a leg however there is a slightly cheaper option and that's actually supporting New Zealand at the Rugby 7’s.

 

Queen Vic’s Toilet
London is the home to the world’s best Museums; the British Museum, V&A, Natural History Museum and the list goes on. If you are at the V&A make sure you check out the toilets that were made especially for Queen Victoria – if you need a tour guide then the lovely Emma will point you in the right direction.

Quirky and then some
Make English friends, they can be weird, slightly eccentric and don't seem to be able to speak proper English but once you forgive them for this they are rather quite nice.

Blog It Baby
Create a blog (it’s easy peasy) and document your adventures while abroad; it will be a great way to reminisce about all your adventures but also let your folks know that you are still alive. The Kiwi in London blogging community is pretty amazing and I thought I would introduce you to a few Kiwi’s living it up in England and sharing their adventures; Runaway Kiwi, 25 before I'm 25, Chocolate Cookies and Candies, Big World Small Me and Me.

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All I know is I still have some work to do - luckily I have a place in the ballot this year (eek!) for the Garden Party. Now just to convince the boy we need to sleep in a castle...

 

Thanks so much Kelly - I as ever I can't wait for your next travel adventures and gluten free goodies updates...

 

What have been your favourites (non-Kiwis welcome, we're very inclusive except in the Rugby - you'll allow us that right)?

 

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